Friday, September 15, 2006
Thursday, September 14, 2006
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
Sunday, September 10, 2006
Saturday, September 09, 2006
Friday, September 08, 2006
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
Tevis Wind - Tom Noll
One hundred miles is the signature distance of endurance riding and the Western States Tevis Cup Ride is the signature 100-mile endurance ride. There are other rides and other distances, but the Tevis Cup 100-Mile Endurance Ride is truly the "Grand Daddy of them all." My horse Frank has a solid 100-mile record and I always thought that he was a Tevis horse, but I never knew for sure, until now.
Last weekend Frank and I ran the 100 miles of the Tevis trail and the entire experience was incredible. The trail, the veterinarians, the volunteers, my crew, the riders, and the horses, and especially the horses, were all phenomenal. The ride was an experience that I'll never forget. Emotion and passion runs along side with the horses on the Tevis trail.
Three weeks before Tevis, Frank and I ran the Big Horn 100 in Wyoming. We were registered for Tevis but I was worried about pushing him too hard and doing too much in only three weeks. I could not make up my mind after Big Horn. On the last day to withdraw, I wrote to the Western States office and canceled my entry. I wrote to my crew leader and told her that I was out. And then, all weekend long, I agonized over my decision. Finally, it was a post from Julie Suhr with an offhand comment about riding the Race of Champions at Big Horn one year and then on to Tevis only a few weeks later that crystallized my mind. On Monday I called the Western States office and asked to be reinstated. Jo Ann asked, "Tom Noll, are you in or are you out?" and I replied to Jo Ann, "Count us in." Frank and I were committed.
I called my crew leader back and asked if she would still help me. Jane answered with an enthusiastic yes. Jane put me in touch with Vicki Testa and Vicki went over every mile of the trail with me on the telephone. We were in and we were ready to run.
I drove down to California on Wednesday and arrived at Robie Park that evening. There were only a few riders at the park and I was able to find an ideal campsite. More riders arrived on Thursday and by Friday, Robie Park was bustling with activity. You can feel the excitement in the air at Robie Park. Tevis is not just any ride. All the riders know, that at best, only about half of them will make it to Auburn and different riders have different strategies to improve their odds. Some ride the trail ahead of time, while others trust their horses to various potions and supplements. Frank and I rested and bided our time until the start while we tried to relax.
Jane Switzer and Jennifer Adam showed up and we discussed the crew activities. I could not help but notice that Jane had a Badwater 2002 hat. We talked, and Jane explained that she was the crew leader for a runner on the Badwater Death Valley-to-Whitney, endurance run. Jane mentioned that Vicki Testa and Kim Nunez, both Tevis finishers would help Frank and me at Robinson Flat. That was when I really began to feel the pressure. I had a world-class crew of endurance veterans and they were all there for Frank.
Frank and I walked around Robie Park. We saw the top riders, the top vets, and the top horses, including Galahad, Monsieur Joseph, and the Outlaw Trail horses. Bogus Thunder was there with the Halls. Barbara White and her horse were camped just down the trail from us. Lucky and her appaloosa Romeo were there from the Big Horn three weeks earlier along with Dave Rabe and Tom Sherwood who were also at Big Horn. Frank was vetted in by Jim Baldwin. Jamie Kerr was at the in check too. I told Frank that we were running in the big leagues now. We were going to run in the footsteps of Ann Trason and other endurance legends. I kept telling myself that once out on the trail we would focus just like any other 100 but I knew that was not true. This was Tevis, and Tevis is different from any other ride.
Frank is a tough little horse who has never been pulled. We both have the 100-mile trail experience and we both have the desire and savvy to make it happen. Frank and I think alike when we are out on the trail. We had primarily done multi-day rides for the past two seasons, but I know that Frank has the speed and I knew that I would call on that speed on the Tevis trail. So far, the winds of fate seemed to be with us too. I felt prepared but more than a wee bit nervous and unsteady as we walked among the giants around Robie Park.
We were split into three pens for the start and Frank and I were in the third pen. I would have preferred a different seed for the start, but on reflection, I though that I could be comfortable starting with the third group and that I would make the best of our placing.
After a restless night we were up at 3:30 to get Frank ready and pack the rig for the trip to Auburn. The stars were shining bright in a jet-black sky and I could tell that it was to be a magnificent day. Frank and I made our way down to the staging area for the start just before 5:00. We walked in some big circles to warm up. Soon the third pen was released and we were walking down the road. I was mildly surprised by how many horses had red ribbons in their tails and I began to think that perhaps there should be a fourth starting group for all the red-tailed horses. The start went very smoothly, the horses were all very well behaved, and soon we were running down the trail at a comfortable pace.
Within the first few miles I was right behind two ladies who could not get their horses over a small little ditch in the trail. The two women were making a very big deal over their command of the trail and emphasized that we should all stay back and give them plenty of room. I'll admit that I would have been nervous on those horses too. Frank and I were patient although the ladies could have saved everyone, including themselves, considerable time and anguish and had a better training experience had they just stepped aside and let others pass. Some riders clocked the wasted time at over twenty minutes -- twenty minutes that were never to be regained that day.
After much effort, the ladies got their horses through the ditch, but only a few yards down the trail was another ditch and the process started anew with more fidgeting, frustration, and commanding behavior. Frank and I were loosing valuable time. Finally, the two ladies parted to opposite sides of the trail and I directed Frank right between the two uncertain horses and their uncertain mounts. As I passed between the ladies I said, "Frankus, show them how it's done!" and we walked through the small ditch and on up the trail never looking back.
We rode along and on up through Squaw Valley. For the most part I was able to ride alone until we got to the switchback tracks up through Squaw Valley to the Sierra crest. We passed Cowman in his Cowman Hat near the top and I let out a cowboy yell. We were on our way. Lake Tahoe was behind us to the east and the Pacific Ocean was in front to the west.
My experience through Granite Chief was perfect. Early on the wilderness trail some riders had experienced some difficulties. I stopped and asked if they needed any assistance. The downed rider seemed to be a little shaken but I was assured that all was ok so Frank and I continued on. After we passed those few riders I got off and ran along with Frank because the trail through the wilderness is steep and rocky. There was no one in front of us and there was no one behind us. We crossed the Granite Chief wilderness alone at our own pace and it was a true wilderness experience on a day on the trail with 200 other riders. Somewhere along the trail I saw the biggest pile of bear poo that I have seen in some time. Frank was unconcerned with the pile, but to me it indicated that Granite Chief is still wilderness and the poo pile did answer the age old question for at least one bear; "Do bears sh** in the woods?"
We passed through the trot-by at Lyon Ridge and we came to Cougar Rock. There was a short queue waiting for a turn on the rock. Time was an issue and I opted for the Cougar Rock bypass deciding that I would prefer a buckle in Auburn to a photo on Cougar Rock if given the choice. Frank and I continued on to Red Star and then to Robinson. We were later than I had hoped arriving into Robinson and the tardiness was probably due to the delays early in the ride. I began to feel the pressure of the cutoffs and that cutoff pressure would continue unabated throughout the entire ride right up until we arrived in Auburn so many hours later. In fact, I constantly worried about the cutoffs. The cutoffs were like the Pinkertons chasing Butch and Sundance in the movie -- they were always behind us, and plenty darn close enough to be worrisome at that.
Frank passed the vet checks at Red Star and Robinson with all As which was a pattern that would be repeated throughout the ride. The two Tevis veterans, Vicki Testa and Kim Nunez met us at Robinson Flat. We had a nice one-hour break and then Frank and I were off on a new trail section. Our odds of finishing went up dramatically with our successful passage through Robinson Flat.
The riders who I rode with on the sections after Robinson were veteran Tevis riders. They were joking about the WSTF always adding more trail each year, yet the overall distance still remains constant at exactly 100 miles. We talked that replacing fire roads with single-track trail certainly made the course more difficult and time consuming, but the character was closer to that of the historical Tevis trail experienced in the 1950s and we agreed that the trail changes were a good thing.
We made our way to Last Chance. Last Chance would be our last chance for a nice break before the canyons. I paused for about twenty minutes to let Frank eat and recover. The next twenty miles of trail would be very difficult and I thought that a break now would pay dividends later. We saddled up and began our descent into the first canyon. It was down, down, down, to the swinging bridge at the very bottom of the canyon. Chris Heron and I were off and leading our horses on much of the descent. At Swinging Bridge I asked Chris to lead across first in case Frank got nervous. Frank showed us his big eyes but he remained mostly cool and collected on the bridge. We crossed the Swinging Bridge and then began our ascent to Deadwood. I could look across the canyon and see that we regained nearly all of the elevation that we had lost since Last Chance. Frank is a hill-climbing horse but these canyons are tough. Near the top I looked into his big brown eyes and questioned myself whether it is really right for me to ask so much of him. He is an awesome horse, however, I need to respect his limits, and the canyons are very difficult.
We stopped briefly at Deadwood and then began the traverse of El Dorado Canyon, which was even deeper than the first canyon. Again, it was down, down, down, to the creek. We passed by the points where unfortunate horses had fallen from the trail on previous trips. Seeing those places was so disturbing that I thought that if something happens to Frank, I hope that I go along too, because I do not think that I could live with myself after such an accident.
Again, some riders were reluctant to yield the trail. The riders that I was riding with were persistent and we passed on by. Again, we crossed El Dorado Creek at the canyon bottom and then began our ascent to Michigan Bluff. Again, it was another big climb and more questioning myself about how much I can ask of my partner. Frank is a good horse and he never faltered or wavered on the hills. We finally topped out at the quaint townsite of Michigan Bluff. My crew was there and we made sure that Frank had time to eat and recover. Again, all As on the vet card and we were off to Foresthill. Frank and I saw some wild turkeys as we were leaving the Michigan Bluff townsite.
Volcano Canyon from Michigan Bluff to Foresthill is shorter and a welcome reprieve from the previous two canyons. We quickly crossed the canyon and made it to Foresthill around 7:30 in the evening. Frank passed through the vet check with another set of As and we took our last one-hour hold. My crew prepared Frank's tack with three glow sticks on the breast collar and I had a little bit to eat. I noticed that Frank seemed to slightly favor his right front while he was standing and we trotted him out before leaving Foresthill. All seemed ok, so I joined up with Chris Heron and we rode together along the streets of Foresthill. It was Saturday night in Foresthill and people were out enjoying the horses. We passed bars and restaurants as well as private parties as we rode through Foresthill. Everyone wished us well. Chris and I descended from Foresthill into the nighttime darkness on our long trip to Franciscos.
Chris rides with a headlamp while I prefer no lights. We enjoyed each other's company on the trail. We walked the steep sections and trotted where we could. Sometimes Chris would lead and sometimes I would lead. I can say there is no other experience like trotting your horse, in the darkness, on an unfamiliar trail, after being out on the trail all day long. The night trail is one of the very best parts of a 100 and I love the feeling of trotting or cantering with my horse down a 100-mile trail in the darkness.
The seventeen miles of trail to Franciscos took us a few hours. Chris and I, Frank, and Impress, worked steadily up and down and along the trail. Every now and then we could see through the trees to the moonlight reflections on the Middle Fork of the American River. Frank vetted through Franciscos with all As again. We paused at Franciscos for a short break and then we were on to the river crossing at Poverty Bar and on to Lower Quarry. The trail along the American River does not get the attention of the canyons, still one slip along this stretch and it will be a quick slide down to the river and someone is going to get hurt. Chris and I passed up the opportunity for corn whiskey and rye at the Poverty Bar river crossing. We took a very brief stop at Lower Quarry and then we were out for the last six miles of trail and our final destination in Auburn.
No Hands Bridge was surreal. I cannot come up with words that describe crossing the bridge. I have seen the photos of the bridge and I have read others' accounts, but I never quite understood its significance. Today it is hard for me to look at photos of No Hands Bridge without a lump in my heart and my eyes misting over.
Leaving Lower Quarry, you can barely make out the bridge down the river. In the nighttime darkness the silhouette of the bridge with its big rainbow arches and old-style architecture is dark, eerie, and almost foreboding. The bridge looms in the darkness down the river in the canyon. You can hear the quiet rumble of rapids in the river. You know that when you cross that bridge there are only four miles to the finish and your whole awesome Tevis experience will soon be over.
Frank and I were in the front as our little group made our way down the trail switchback and then onto the bridge. Frank and I took our time and we walked across the bridge even though one could easily trot, lope, or even gallop across the span. The rider behind me said that we could trot if I wanted. I was so emotional that I could barely get the words out, but all I wanted was to walk and savor the whole experience. Frank and I had traveled 96 miles on the most famous 100-mile trail. We crossed mountains and we had crossed canyons. We had crossed rivers and creeks. We had run miles of dusty, rocky trails. For a few moments, time stood still and it was just myself and my horse and the Western States Trail as we crossed No Hands Bridge together.
No Hands Bridge is a mystical spot on the Tevis trail. The spirits of all the past Tevis horses ran with Frank and silently guided him along the Tevis trail all day and through the night. The breath of those Tevis horses formed the gentle winds of fate that blew us steadily onward towards Auburn. The spirits of the past Tevis horses visited us one last time on No Hands Bridge before they turned the trail over to Frank; "Mister Frank, let's take it on home."
My Tevis ride embodies everything that is great about endurance. Frank is a wonderful partner and my best friend, the trail is very tough, the Tevis volunteers were just as excited to be there as we were, the veterinary staff was world-class, the camaraderie on the trail was excellent, and strangers who I had never met before came together and formed a perfect crew and kindly took care of my horse. I will certainly return to the Western States trail but my 2006 Tevis experience will never be repeated.
Best Regards,
Tom Noll
SW Idaho
Sunday, August 13, 2006
Tevis 2006 - Pam Bowen
husband, Don. About 2 weeks before, I was overcome with fear, from what I
was never sure. Everything was falling into place, but I was scared to
death. Was it turning things over to our crew? That would be silly as we
had the best crew anyone could ask for, Becky Glaser and her daughter Lena.
Was it the start with 200 other horses? I was riding a seasoned horse,
Whyatt, who completed Tevis the 3 previous years, was I worried about Don
and Willy and that damn Kaput Springs they fell from 3 years ago? I'm not
sure I'll ever know the answer, I'm not a wimpy rider so it will likely go
unexplained.
I left work early on Wednesday and drove to Auburn to meet up with my
husband at the BBQ. Afterwards, we went back to our friend's at Michigan
Bluff where Don had been staying the week. We spent the night and got up
early to head to Robie. We got good parking and set up camp, horses were
doing well, my insides were still turning, but really found we didn't have
much to do as I had done most of the preparation and organizing ahead of
time. Friday came, we checked in and vetted through. There were a lot of
distractions during the day, but my insides were still occasionally turning.
For some reason, one particular person stood out that I just can't shake
from my head, it was a gal that was riding through camp nearly all day
bareback on a gaited horse. Everywhere I turned, she was there, gaiting her
horse through camp. It was in the afternoon that I realized her horse had a
number on its butt so was entered. I couldn't figure out why she wasn't
resting the horse and allowing it to tank up. We passed that horse
relatively early in the ride, I don't think they finished. Also, Greg
Kimler came to see Willy, he was one of his rescuers. It was very emotional
to watch the reunion.
Our rig driver showed up, Debbie Parsons from Florida, with her new friend,
Chip from Minnesota! Long story, but it was such a pleasure to have these 2
young women join our crew, they were both absolutely wonderful and a joy to
have around. Don and I went for a pre-ride and as we were coming back to
camp I found Becky and Lena driving through camp. Things were really in
place now! The 6 of us went to dinner and the ride meeting. Becky and Lena
left with their truck and my Jeep that was already packed with crew supplies
to get parked closer to Robinson. Time to sleep, yeh right! I think I got
2 hours? We were up and in the saddle without a hitch, once in the saddle,
I had to take deep breaths, insides were turning.
We were assigned to pen #2. I think the RM had a good idea that needs to be
refined, it was the riders that failed to follow instructions that botched
things. We had been instructed to keep the horses moving in the pen, then
assemble in order at the 2 minute warning and exit the pen in pairs and
maintain the 2x2 at a walk to the start. Folks in our pen started clogging
the entrance right away, and no sooner did we come out of the pen riders
started rushing and passing at a trot, to go where, I don't know. And then
the start, and the horrible back up at the trickle crossing. Folks giving
trail was a problem all day, but this was ridiculously rude, folks that
couldn't get their horses across refusing to yield and riders from behind
trying to push through when we were just as stuck as they were. I hated
them all! When we finally got to the trickle, ours just calmly walked
across, eager to move out. I never felt like puking after that, I was cured
from whatever was bothering me.
It was a beautiful, but tough ride. When we were climbing to the top, I
asked Don where Lake Tahoe was, he said behind me. Good thing I asked :).
I looked behind and it was the entire view! There were a few bogs in
Granite Chief, but mostly just a lot of rock, still pretty though, and
Whyatt was grabbing snacks of God knows what along the way. The snow bridge
was interesting, Cougar rock was fun, Willy refused, but Whyatt went up all
business, no real drama, but it is steeper than what it looks in pictures.
We got to Robinson and found the entire crew, so all was well. We had 4
people catering to our every need. Becky was in charge of the horses
though, she went over them with a fine tooth comb and made sure of what they
were eating and drinking. We left on the "new" trail, yuk! They said it
would be slower but prettier, the last thing Tevis needs is slower, and I
couldn't see anything for the dust! I vote for the old road, even though
I've never done it! When we were on the trail going over Pucker Point, Nick
Warhol was behind us, I was so glad because he pointed out just the right
times to look between the trees at the gorgeous views. I saw the
waterfalls, the river and the sheer drop offs, thanks Nick! We also teased
about giving trail, who should go on the right side :). We ran into more
problems with riders yielding on the way to the swinging bridge, don't know
why they won't yield when they get to good spots, perhaps they are tired and
not thinking clearly? The swinging bridge was fun, Whyatt decided to trot
to catch Willy, so we had a good boing-boing going (I love this horse!), and
I waved to Arnie who was down below cooling his horse in the river!
We were finally at that moment, Don crossed Kaput Springs on Willy, he
called back to tell me just as Whyatt started over. There is enough to
drink from, but I'm with Don, we don't stop there, nor did we dally to
survey the accident scene :). But tears came to my eyes, Willy beat this
spot, the unfinished business was over at last! On to Michigan Bluff, where
we found Debbie and Chip. They did everything they could for us, Whyatt is
a little heavier this year so needed a little cooling to pulse in, the east
coast girls were good at this one! Took a few minutes and he was good, of
course it's not like he was cooperating, he was on a mission to find the
best grub! Off to Foresthill, emotional going up bath road with the
cheering and finding your crew. Horses pulsed right in, straight to the VC,
Whyatt was at 48. Becky had prime parking, and we found ourselves next to
Leigh Bacco, another of Willy's rescuers, more emotional moments. Becky was
all over the horses, Lena was human intake control, Debbie and Chip did
every odd job. Becky had wash cloths and eye wash (to get that "new trail"
dirt out of our eyes, mine were nearly swollen shut). Becky has been dubbed
the "soup lady" after a comical episode between her and the horses. I have
to admit, I am very impressed with both horses, neither hit a wall the
entire time and both ate like champs.
Off in the dark, I didn't like this part. Very emotional moment going
through the town of Foresthill, even little children were cheering us on.
Later, the trail had been sabotaged at one spot and we were lost for a half
hour. I especially didn't like it that Don made me go first because he said
Whyatt knew the way. I really didn't like that one trail on the super steep
mountain with the loooong switchbacks, with a view of the American River
glowing in the moonlight, taunting me, no shore to be seen, a good clue to
the steepness is when you are riding by treetops! Whyatt led about 20
people down that section, it was very quiet, no complaints about speed,
Whyatt was power walking and trotting. There was one time that I asked
Whyatt to go left, I saw the trail (but I was also seeing extra horses and
people walking that didn't exist), he jerked the reins from my hand and
headed right, whoa, flashlight, drop-off to the left, trail to the right,
mental note, don't do that again. We got hung up again several more times
with slow riders that didn't want to yield.
We finished, Don and I both, what are the odds of that? Becky and the
entire crew were at the finish, Becky made sure we celebrated with champagne
and Martinelli's (Don had the cider, I had the champagne, 3 glasses!).
Becky and crew took care of the horses, we were sent to shower. Chip was
picked up by her cousin after the Haggin judging, Becky and Lena went home
after the awards, Debbie joined us when we returned to Michigan Bluff, at
the home of our wonderful friends, Gary and Judy Hall. We had a simple
meal, in the basement/bar, Gary faded first, then Don after sitting in the
hot tub, then us girls went to bed.
I have to thank my horse first, TR Whyatt was awesome, 4 Tevis completions
in a row, he surpassed 4k miles at this ride, his HR hit 160 only once
during the entire ride, the rest of the time it was remarkably low, Whyatt
taught me what to do in tough terrain, which was nothing, he has my utmost
respect. My crew, money couldn't buy what we were given in that department,
thank you to the awesome laid-back Becky, Lena, and my new friends Debbie
and Chip. To Kim Fuess, for pushing and mentoring me to get to the 100 mile
start, the hardest part. And to my husband, who has the Tevis experience
and had the good sense to put me up front in the dark and let Whyatt lead
the way, can I cry now?
Will I do it again? Don't know, but I know I don't have to, I have a
buckle, I did it................................
Pam Bowen
Tevis 2006 - Don Bowen
completions were done with our tough little big horse, TR Whyatt. Both of
those completions were special and gave me the needed experience in order
for me to complete with Wild West, aka Willy, better known as Willy the
Flying Horse!
It's been three years since that Memorial Day weekend that Willy and I fell
from the Tevis trail during a practice ride one month prior to Tevis 2003.
We were at Kaput Springs, I let Willy get a drink and the trail behind Willy
gave way. We went over backwards, Willy rolled over my leg and broke it, my
head slammed into a tree and I stopped at about 50'. Willy fell another
500-700 feet, depending on who you ask. The story was in the March 2004
Endurance News, center section. But the story, briefly, is that I was taken
to the hospital, a group of locals organized and found Willy the next day,
he had to be taken out by helicopter. Willy returned to endurance and did
the Bear Mt Valley ride three months later. In December, what the vet
described as a very old suspensory injury reared its ugly head. We opted
for the stem cell, and after a year off, my wife Pam started riding him
again (per the vet's instruction to start with lighter weight) with great
success.
After last years season, Pam and I agreed we would switch horses and get
Willy ready for Tevis, Willy and I had unfinished business. At the DVE ride
an arrangement was made with Becky Glaser, that if we went to Tevis with
Willy, she would be our crew, what better crew could any ask for? Willy did
his first 100 at the Californios in June. Pam kept the boys legged up as I
chased fire on the Angeles Forest in July.
I showed up to Michigan Bluff with the boys the week before Tevis to stay
with my Tevis family, the Hall's, folks that had helped with Willy's rescue.
A funny thing happened on our arrival. I let Willy out first, as usual, but
this time when I went to let Whyatt out, Willy, kept trying to push Whyatt
back in as if to say "no Whyatt, don't get out, I know this place, this is
bad place, dude this is where I fell". And Whyatt kept trying to back out
saying "dude, I also know this place and the sooner I get out the sooner we
eat"!
That night I was invited to the Tevis Pre-Ride BBQ for the send off to this
year's riders. It was at the BBQ I was able to tell Greg Kimler and others
involved with Willy's rescue that Willy was here and entered in Tevis.
We left Michigan Bluff Thursday morning and headed to Robie. On Friday we
went to the vet-in and as luck would have it, I got Dr. Jim Baldwin who knew
of Willy and his story. He vetted through just fine and we started the next
morning.
I feel we lost about an hour due to the new start and new trail. I think
that's a fair assessment since I rode the ride the previous two years. The
new start had great intentions but when it came down to it, the instruction
to continue walking in a circle in the pens was not followed nor was the
instruction followed to walk to the start in pairs. So we were already
jamming up by the time we started and the balked horses at the trickle water
crossing added to the frustration. The new trail out of Robinson had great
views, but as mid packers we weren't able to make time due to the rocks and
dust. I think this is now the new Dusty Corner. I know this to be true
because I've made good time on the road used in the past. I know both of
these items will be better in the future and this was just my experience.
When we passed Kaput Springs, I was leading, Pam was behind, with a few
others behind her. I yelled out the brief version about Willy as we passed
by the spring, without stopping of course! Willy continued through the vet
checks and trail fairly well all day. When we got to Forest Hill the
amazement of Willy's accomplishments were starting to show through. Dr.
Adrienne Brouwer, who was the vet that saw him after his fall and the
rescue, vetted Willy. She couldn't believe it was Willy and that he was here
at Tevis. He was a bit tired, but looked good, and after some food and rest
he looked like a new horse trotting out of Forest Hill. At Francisco's she
saw him again and commented he still looked good. At the finish all the vets
looked at the horse that should have been dead let alone be at the Tevis and
finish. As we completed the vetting and started our victory lap the tears
began to form, for my partner, who was able to conquer the trail that tried
to take him. A few horses have fallen from the trail and perished. This is
the story of one that survived, and eventually finished, Tevis.
Don Bowen
Friday, August 11, 2006
Thursday, August 10, 2006
Friday, August 04, 2006
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Sunday, July 23, 2006
Rough Riders on the Big Horn Trail 2006 - Tom Noll
Greetings,
There is a story about the Tour de France that the founder, Henri Desgrange,
wanted to make the tour so demanding that there would be one lone finisher,
the winner.
I went to the Big Horn in 2006 with the idea that I needed to be better
prepared and have a faster horse than last year. Frank, my best horse, 2003
Big Horn winner and BC horse, would be my teammate on the trails this year.
2004 and 2005 were not particularly good years for me and in 2006 I stepped
up my running, worked to regain some focus, and get my head back on the
trail. I wanted to be able to run or walk all of the significant downhill
trail sections if necessary. Frank and I can put together a pretty strong
"power walk" on the downhill but he can kick my butt on the uphill sections.
Frank and I had planned to follow Big Horn with Tevis, but only if the Big
Horn outcome was satisfactory.
We left SW Idaho early on Wednesday morning and followed a cold front across
the desert and mountains of Idaho east to Wyoming. We had cool showery
weather for our trip from the Boise area to the rodeo grounds in Dubois
Wyoming. We passed by the Tetons shrouded in clouds, climbed and descended
Togwotee Pass to Dubois Wyoming. On Thursday we got up early, left Dubois,
and arrived at the Trapper Creek Ranch campsite around noon.
Immediately I made contact with some old friends, Tracy Blue and Max
Merlich. I met Saula and Tom Sherwood and Dave Rabe at the camp, along with
Steph Teeter, Bev Grey, Chris Yost, Kara Yost, Lucky and her beautiful
Appaloosa stud, and many others. Tracy, Max and I formed a pact and decided
that we would ride together and that we would run a conservative ride with
the focus on completing with two sound horses and one sound mule. The
weather forecast was for hot dry weather; the type of weather that could
dehydrate a horse in only a few miles. Again, my brother Willi came up from
Colorado and he, Lisa, and Dan coordinated the crew activities which saved
our horses as we traversed the Big Horn trails. A crew is not necessary at
most endurance rides, but a crew is critical at Big Horn. Just like Tevis,
the Big Horn ride managers do not have the ability to ferry your equipment
from place to place and you will have to arrange for your own supplies.
We knew that there would be some trail changes on the portion from Antelope
Butte to Jacks Creek but we were confident that the changes would be
consistent with the six miles of trail along Shell Creek that had been
eliminated.
I was up at 2:45 in the morning, I prepared a grain mash for Frank, met with
Max and Tracy, and the three of us saddled up and headed to the start.
Frank and I had trained for this ride and I arranged a two-week taper for
him prior to starting. Frank was beside himself dancing and turning with
untamed energy at the start. The other horses took off and Frank remembered
that his place on the Big Horn trail was at the front of the herd. It took
some walking, but we got everything under control and headed on up the
trail.
We set a steady quick pace across the desert badlands. The leaders were
nowhere to be seen. Our group talked that the day was already hot and we
were worried that the leaders might be setting too fast of a pace and
pulling others along. Our pace was just slightly off my splits from 2003
and 2004 and we were planning on a 1:00 AM to 2:30 AM finish for the 100.
Early on we joined with Teresa VanHowe and the four of us rode together for
many miles.
We arrived at Hudson Falls around 7:45; a 3:45 25-mile run. The Big Horn is
a tough course and we hoped to build a little time cushion in the first 25
miles. I had a great breakfast of yogurt, fruit, and granola that Willi
made, Frank and the others ate hay and grain, Frank polished off a Powerbar,
and we were off after a 45 minute hold.
The next 15 miles are a tough trip through the canyons. We headed up the
Dugway trail bypassing one of my favorite sections along Cedar Canyon. At
the top of the Dugway the markings were not too distinct. I knew the trail
and my horse knows the trail, but I wanted to test him anyway. For the last
100 yards to the trail junction I set the reins across the saddle and just
let Frank choose his own route. Sure enough, we came to the trail junction
and he turned right with no hesitation. The horse memory is amazing and he
led us into the canyons.
The canyons are my favorite section of the Big Horn Trail. Actually, my
favorite section is the 80 or so miles from the creek below Hudson Falls to
just after Jack Creek, or even the entire 100 miles, but the canyons are
especially nice. The flies were troublesome but our group just kept on
trucking up and down through the canyons and across the saddles.
We arrived at Horse Creek and we saw the first evidence that some of the
horses may have been going too fast. One horse showed signs of colic at the
Horse Creek vet check. Riders and vets got the horse up and standing.
Later I heard that a dose on Banamine led the horse to a quick recovery.
Two other horses were not so fortunate.
>From Horse Creek we followed Dave Rabe and Tom and Saula Sherwood across the
swales and onto to Antelope Butte. The high alpine area was dry this year
and I deeply missed seeing the small blue forget-me-nots in the high
meadows. Those flowers have special meaning for me. The hot dry weather
continued and I was consuming almost all of the water in my 70-ounce
Camelback between every vet check.
We had an hour hold at Antelope Butte and our out-time was scheduled to be
about 3:45. We were still on schedule and I took the time at Antelope Butte
to unsaddle Frank and hose him off. I also had a very nice conversation
with Bob and Nance, an older couple from Greybull who owned Frank at one
point in his past. A big part of returning to the Big Horn 100 is renewing
friendships with people like Bob and Nance and others like Kathy Arnold that
I only see once a year. I took the opportunity to have a hamburger and talk
with some of the other riders. Kara Yost's horse was pulled from lameness
and Chris would be joining us for the last fifty miles of the ride.
We set off from Antelope Butte at about 3:45. The trail climbs back to the
Big Horn Plateau and then descends to Shell Creek. We walked the descent to
Shell Creek and stopped to look for access to the creek water but the bank
was too steep. Usually the trail heads east at Shell Creek for about six
miles to Adelaide Lake but this year the trail climbed out of Shell Creek to
almost 10,000 feet, then descended and climbed through a series of saddles
and passes to Shell Reservoir, and then climbed back to Adelaide Lake where
it joins with the historical trail. As we climbed out of Shell Creek we
passed one rider whose horse had given up. Later we caught two other riders
who were slowing down and considering their options. We continued on
through Snowshoe Junction and then descended down to Shell Reservoir. Frank
has done three other Big Horn 100s and he was confused on this section. I
could feel his concern that we were not on the right trail. Still, he kept
on, trusting that I knew where we were going. The new trail section took
considerably longer than the traditional six-mile trail to Adelaide Lake and
the new section had considerably more elevation gain and loss. It did not
look like we were going get to Jack Creek before dark like I had planned.
Leaving Jack Creek before full darkness is a key milestone leading to a
successful Big Horn 100.
At the creek crossings after Adelaide Lake we decided to give the animals a
fifteen-minute rest stop. They had been out all day and it had been a long
time since the Antelope Butte vet check. The four horses were just mowing
grass at the creek crossing. Reluctantly we took them away from the grass
and headed on up the trail in the rapidly diminishing twilight. It was just
about full darkness when we reached the top and began our descent on the
Shag Nasty. Trail markings were scarce and we made a slight mistake and
began to head west down the wrong trail. We quickly corrected that mistake
and headed across the valley to the correct trails on the south ridge. It
was very dark. I had my GPS with the tracklogs from the previous years as
well as my knowledge of the track. Heading across to the trail I commented
that my companions must really trust me because there was no trail and no
trail markers and no discussion and it was dark. They responded; "We have
no other choice." I carry a red LED light which is good enough to adjust
tack and read trail signs but not quite bright enough to see the trail. I
was leading Frank at the time and usually I could feel the trail surface
with my feet or barely see it in the dark. At times I would call out to
Tracy for a "trail scan" with her flashlight so we could be sure that we
were on the trail. Every so often we would come to a wall of impenetrable
black trees. In the daylight it would be easy to see the trail, but at
night it looked like a dark thicket. Tracy would shine her flashlight and
we would find a way through. I was leading Frank and the others were
mounted and the tree branches and limbs were a real hazard to both riders
and horses. Both Max and Tracy took some real stabs and I could tell that
Tracy's hurt by the tone in her voice. We saw no trail markers and went
quite slow on this section because of the hazards. Max Merlich estimates
that the Shag Nasty section cost us at least two extra hours. We came out
exactly where we should on the road and trotted the two miles or so into
Jack Creek.
At Jack Creek, there was concern about the riders still out on the trail.
Looking at the ride records it appeared that there were two, or perhaps
three, riders still out on the trail. It was obvious that they would be
spending a night out in the woods and we hoped all was ok. We focused on
taking care of our horses. Tracy Blue decided that she had enough for one
day and encouraged us to go on without her. Max and I were disappointed
because we had ridden with Tracy from the start and we wanted to ride back
into camp with her later in the day.
Chris, Max, and I made our preparations to go. We knew that we were over
time and we could see no real reason to hurry. We lost our time in the dark
on the Shag Nasty and from here on in to camp we decided to take it slow and
preserve the animals. We walked and led down to camp. We passed the creek
and the two water holes. Our horses were famished and they were searching
and stretching for every blade of dry grass on the trail. We stopped at
each of the water crossings to let them drink and graze for a few minutes.
The day had been hot and we were no longer in any real hurry. We were
confident that we would finish and that the finish time would exceed
24-hours.
The sky was getting light by the time we reached Black Mountain. We passed
the rock ledges, continued down through the dust, did the final dogleg trail
section and ambled on in to the finish. About 100 feet before the finish
Max's mule Junior picked up a stone in one of his horseshoes and Max made a
final stop just shy of the finish line to remove the stone. We met Patti at
the finish and we let the horses and the mule graze on some Flitner grass
after a long 100 miles on the trail. Even though we were overtime, we
finished the whole trail with sound horses that were ready, willing, and
able to continue, and Max mentioned the AERC motto.
Looking back, I rode the 2006 Big Horn 100 with three of the toughest
individuals that I have ever met - Tracy Blue, Max Merlich, and Chris Yost.
Tracy, Max, and I made a commitment to ride together at camp on Thursday and
we followed through with that commitment on Saturday. Through my various
adventures I have met a number of tough people. If I am ever in trouble and
I need to cross some rough trail in a difficult situation, then I can think
of no others who would be better companions and no better horses and a mule
that would get us through. At a gas station in SE Idaho on my way to Shell
Wyoming, I heard a Tom Petty song and the lyrics of that song come to mind
when I think of my trail companions last week: "You can stand me up at the
gates of hell but I won't back down." Thoughts of my companions, thoughts
of their horses, and the memories of our experiences on the Big Horn trails
still bring a tear to my eyes. Sitting here at work, I wish that I could be
back out on the Big Horn trails with Frank and my friends.
Best Regards,
Tom Noll
SW Idaho
Friday, July 21, 2006
Vermont 100 - The Whole Story
Well since you asked...here's the whole story.
For those of you that do not know me, let me preface this tome with a little background. Two years ago I was a happy Ultrarunner who thought my wife's horses were very nice and yes I would feed them if she couldn't but who otherwise did not have a lot of use for a horse. Then while taking a little stroll through the hills of Vermont lo and behold here come horses riding the same course as I was running and surprise the riders and horses were also having fun. Well I finished that little stroll in the woods, went home and informed my wife that I had finally found a use for a horse, that you could wear running clothes, that I wanted to learn how to ride and needed to buy myself some horses and that I was going back to Vermont to ride the course.
My wife is the most wonderful person on this planet and has to be one of the most understanding people I know, but even she was not quite prepared for that announcement. After the shock had subsided and she realized that like many of my crazy undertakings, I was serious about this she wholeheartedly agreed to help me. I of course had no idea what I was in for, I mean after all you get on the horse and ride, just like running they say go, you put one foot in front of the other for 100 miles and someone tells you to stop and you fall down, moan in pain and proclaim how much fun it all is! Needless to say it was not quite that simple...first I had to learn how to ride...a painful endeavor if there ever was one. Then I had to buy a horse, again my gratitude to my wife for knowing which horse I really needed, instead of which horse I thought I needed! Then the riding had to proceed...enter here the numerous and wonderful people of CTR/Endurance...how can I thank you all for what you have given? Irving, Tom, Kathy, Janet, Sharon, Traci, Liz the list goes on and on. Not only did you all suffer from my numerous questions, laugh at my feeble attempts to stay on the horse, but you encouraged and supported and realized that I had a goal and was committed.
So two short years later here I was back on the ground in Vermont, surrounded by all my running friends (who while insane...figured I was really insane for being on a horse). Along side were Kathy, Liz on Darby and a host of others I have had the pleasure of meeting over the last two years and most importantly of all, my beautiful wife smiling and wishing me a good ride! Trails open and Liz and I were off, not dead last but definitely back of the pack...a nice leisurely start and a good beginning. The sun was painting the eastern sky and the birds were singing, the horses were having so much fun, I think I was the only one worried...after all 100 miles is a 100 miles. Soon enough the lady's horse in front of me tripped and over the reins she went..no harm and she jumped right back on, both Liz and I were impressed to say the least. Away she sped...and we too picked up the pace a little as our first fly by was at 10 miles and we only had 1 hour and 45 minutes to get there.
Now one good thing about running a course is you get to know it REAL well, I mean in intimate detail. So I was able to describe to Liz when we could go fast and where the runner's aid stations would be and how soon we would catch the runners (they get a one hour head start). And right on the predictions we came to the aid stations and caught the back of the pack runners. We also came to the second runner's station at mile 10.1 and looked everywhere for the fly by. Oh no, we missed it or did we and where in the heck is it if not at 10 miles? Keep going, but if we do we will cross the river and then will be at 12.7 miles and time was running out...we had planned to take at least 1 hour and 30 minutes and had only 15 minutes to spare. Time to go a little faster Summer you magnificent goober! By the aid station and around the bend, there is Stephanie smiling and waving and yes the fly by but at mile 13 not 10, still made 1 hour and 45 minutes but wow!
Eat Summer, drink Summer, have an electrolyte Summer, we are outta' here...first hold still down the road but now the time was going to work in our favor providing the mileage was right (and it was). We continued to trot up the hills and down. Liz and Darby were having fun and Summer and I continued our dance with them. So many runners and all having fun and telling me to give them a lift and what was I doing up on that horse...you runners are so awesome, how well I remember the climb that just keeps going up and the drive to keep moving...somehow on Summer it was surreal and yet so real. Hey Liz just up here we get to a clear cut be sure and look back over your shoulder...what a view...fantastic, and yes that is Mt. Ascutney...we will be down there later today. Into the first hold and both Summer and Darby sail though...cleared back on trail. Yippee we get to pass the runners again. How is it going all? Yep good day, life is good, yes I love my horse and no you cannot be towed :-) River coming up, take the ford but Liz, we go slow by the next aid station (the famous chocolate chip runners station). Hi, I know we are not runners but will you kindly share a couple of your cookies with us riders? You will, my thanks to you all! Yum yum were they good...of course the photographer is just ahead and both Liz and I had a mouth full of cookies when he said smile!
On to the second hold, the miles are starting to add up and the day is getting hotter and more humid, but right on schedule there it is and so is Steph...what a joy to see her smiling face and know Summer was going to be taken care of so well. Once again Summer and Darby sail through...how can one ever thank the vets and volunteers enough? Back on course and now the famous back loop out of Camp 10 Bear and the also famous climb from hell, two actually, first it is Agony Hill (Summer agreed) and then the real climb from hell it just never ends! But yes it does end after all and the view back over one's shoulder is worth the price of admission! Third hold coming up...pulse is good, but Doug our good vet says, that horse is going a little funny, come back when you are tacked up. Time to panic..is Summer off or is he being Summer (this boy travels funny for sure). Tack up and trot down and back...here's your card, Summer has all A's for metabolics is eating and drinking and peeing up a storm so you can proceed. Back down to 10 Bear then up the gulch from hell (I always hated that climb when afoot especially since it was always dark when afoot). Finally the top and Liz comments on the beautiful home on the right...told her I had never seen it in the daylight before! Into the hold and Summer does well. Meg Sleeper gives Summer a good going over and clears us onward...yippee 70 miles gone and even though we are in last place Liz and I can proceed. Ah the best laid plans of mice and men! Poor Liz is not feeling well and pulls herself...Summer and Darby look at each other and nod, Liz's health is more important. Well Summer looks like it is going to be you and me. Say what? You crazy human all the other horses are gone, it is getting dark and why are you putting on running shoes? Lani and Kathy, Summer says next time please wait or at least leave your horses behind! Steph looks at me and says, well you have been here before, you know what you have to do your horse knows what he has to do so go out and do it! Got it!
Out of the hold and the daylight is fading fast. Good some runners ahead we are still on course and still moving. Soon enough it is dark, and I mean DARK. Now everyone told me to not blind the horse, so I put a couple glow sticks on his breast collar and they are blinding me. I was using my red LED but that was just about worthless. Guess I will trust the horse even more. And so the miles were slipping by. Look Summer another glow stick ahead lets go that way and yes those are runners do not run over them. Kept getting nice comments...wow a horse, haven't seen one of those for hours...thanks! Keep moving, what is that noise? Screeching...the hair is standing up on the back of my neck and Summer is saying no damn way! Come on buddy lets go, it won't hurt us...I still do not know what was up in those trees nor do I want to! More screeching only this time it is a peacock...go back to sleep it is only Summer and I. Another pit stop and there is Steph, still smiling and still crewing...we both owe her so much! Eat up Summer miles to go before we sleep. About 7 miles to next and final hold, okay be there in a while. Back into the darkness and once again all alone, no runners, no horses just Summer and I. Down behind Rojeks house and all of sudden we are crashing through the woods. Whoa Summer, what is going on? I am turning on my light I need to see what is the problem...holy moly they have jumps set up out here...good boy I am glad you went around that instead of over it! Guess I will leave the light on for a while! Lets go! The miles continue to pass, thank goodness for runners aid stations as they have mile markers and good food too! Shouldn't be too far to the hold, couple of miles time to run big guy so on the ground I go and don't you know, at this point I am faster than Summer. Crazy humans he thinks! We jog right to the hold, surprise no other horses but he vets immediately...trot a little funny, what's that? Major pee...oh he had to pee, great color, you been on foot? Yep. Doug says we are both fit to continue see you at the end. Thanks. Okay Steph, only 12 miles to go, can you meet us one more time? Good we are off. Ride a ways then back on my feet too..need to climb these darn hills faster and without my weight he can.
Time starts to drag and we are all alone, haven't seen a runner in an hour. Summer starts to question his rider's mentality...you must be going the wrong way, there is no one out here. How about this farm they have horses, we can stop here! Finally two runners coming, look Summer lets follow them. Okay Dad! Not to worry runners we are going to drag off of you for a while, Summer needs a guide dog! Pace actually picks up as they are shooting for sub 24 hours running and we only have a few miles to go. Up ahead Steph's smiling face once again! Tom is there too...what a great group they all are. Eat up Summer, 4.7 miles to go. Steph meet us at the end and skip the last pit crew stop we are coming home! Two more runners racing the 4 AM time cutoff for 24 hours. Nice guys, one older than the other. He is tired, very tired, Summer is getting excited as we had ridden part of this course on Friday. The runner keeps asking how are we doing? I tell him he can do it, get in front of the horse and keep moving, we have to climb Blood Hill (twice actually) and then the final shoot. 3:45 AM how far he says, I tell him he can make it but he needs to push and push hard...I know the struggle going on...he has been running for 23 hours and 45 minutes, his brain is screaming go, go, go, and his body is yelling make it stop please! I get off the horse and start chasing them on foot...Summer says huh?
Down the final shoot, there is the finish line. Damn 4:06 AM, he finished but missed the cutoff (a plaque not a buckle)...but such is the life of an ultra runner or rider! He comes over as I am untacking Summer and shakes my hand and says thanks for letting him go first and for the wonderful horse pushing him onward. Our pleasure I reply. Steph takes my vet card and goes into the almost empty tent and announces 106 arriving! Nick and Meg are waiting, pins and needles time. Is Summer okay, is he a little stiff, I know damn well he is tired, but he has been so magnificent what else can I say. Meg and Nick confer and Meg turns to me and says Completion. What? Completion! Yahoo, a big hug from Meg a handshake from Nick, Lani comes in and gives us all bear hugs. I hug Summer and Steph. It is over, we had done it! What can one say? As we headed up the hill it was getting light in the east once again. The runners were still coming in and the world was good. A quick nap and then up again to make sure Summer was okay...feed me he said, so I did! Awards ceremony...everyone keeps asking did you make it! The smile alone told the story! Sue calls out the 50 mile finishers and then gets to the 100s. Yep Turbo Turtle for sure..we paid for 24 hours and by golly we got 24 hours. Art King shakes my hand and his head...Sue shakes my hand as do countless others...it is like a dream. I sit back down holding that buckle in my hand and can't stop smiling...guess I need to buy a belt! Kathy gets her buckle too! So many are there, Irving, Tom, Kathy, Steph and so many others.
Sorry this is so long but it had to be told. If I did not make it clear from the beginning I owe so much to my wonderful wife Stephanie and to my fabulous horse Summer (thanks Nancy and Julie for selling him to me). Dreams and goals are such a part of a persons life and the ability to go after one's dreams are so important. My thanks to any and all that shared our journey, we will see you on the trails for sure.
And if you are wondering, yes it is much easier to run 100 miles (maybe physically tougher) than it is to ride 100 miles, but I must say riding a wonderful horse is pretty close to bliss! Bill and Summer